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How to make mineral makeup PDF Print E-mail

Have you ever wondered how commercial brands of loose mineral makeup is made? Ever wonder what some of the ingredients are and why they are used? Stop wondering and start reading.

 

Mineral makeup sensation has almost saturated the market, threatening the sales of other commercial brands of cosmetics. It seems that even brand-name cosmetic lines with signature lines of makeup are looking to jump on the mineral makeup band wagon. Buyer Beware! Not all mineral makeup is created equal. Depending on the supplier of the materials used to create the mineral makeup, some products may be denser than others.

Then there is the question of the inorganic ingredients, like bismuth oxychloride, which are added to popular brands. Well now you can create your own mineral makeup and know exactly what is going into your product.

First you need to know what mineral makeup weights and conversions. There is volume and there is weight.

Volume: Equals the amount of space occupied by a three dimensional object (in this case mineral makeup) measured in cubic units (ounces, pounds, grams). In the case of mineral makeup the unit of measure are grams (i.e. 3 grams, 5 grams, 1/2 oz, 1/4 oz, 1/16 tablespoon).

Weight: Is the actual product weight which is expressed in grams and ounces in the case of mineral makeup. This doesn't include the weight of the container. Since some of the ingredients used to create mineral makeup can be denser than others (depending on your supplier) you product could weight less but have a higher volume. (NOTE: if you are using a gram scale to measure your product, place an empty jar on the scale and use your TARE before weighing your product.)

There are different ingredients and tools you will need to get started. Next, I will provide a brief explanation of the ingredients we will use in the sample formula provided in this article. The ingredients you will need are:

Titanium dioxide: This is a natural mineral. It is readily mined in one of the purest forms, rutile beach sand, its non-irritating and provides full sun protection (SPF). It is used to aide our foundations in providing great full coverage with a weightless feel giving you a luminous glow. (No shine here ladies)

Zinc oxide: Similar to titanium dioxide is also a natural mineral. Helps give our foundations excellent coverage and protects your skin against damaging affects of ultra-violet sun rays. Should also be noted that zinc oxide has a calming effect on irritated skin.

Mica: Also found naturally on the earth's surface. Mica powder is purified and crushed mica minerals. It was used by ancient Egyptians. Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as it doesn't sink into lines in the face but smooths them out. We will use Oriental and Gold.

Iron Oxides: Used in various colors to help provide color to our makeup. These are dry pigments which are insoluble powders. We will use Yellow Iron Oxide, Ultramarine Blue, Red Iron Oxide

Serecite: a fine grained mica that gives our produces a silky sheen. The name comes for the Latin sericu, meaning "Chinese" in reference to the location from which silk was first utilized.

You will also need:
a gram scale, which you can purchase at your local Walmart
a grinder, I use a coffee grinder for small projects
measuring spoons/cups
several small plastic containers
gloves to protect your hands.
white paper to protect your working surface
paper and pen - you'll be taking notes
watch with minutes hand or stop watch

Be sure to work in an uncluttered, well ventilated area. When mixing larger quantities of product I suggest you use a face mask as well as inhaling the powders could be harmful.

Now to the nitty gritty stuff, here are instructions to create your own light mineral makeup foundation shade. Don't expect perfect results the first few times, practice makes perfect. Drape the white paper over your work surface (be sure there are no little ones lingering near your work area). Place all our items on your work area and put on your gloves.

You will begin by placing a small container onto your gram scale. Weigh your container and jot the weight down. Use the TARE setting on your scale so that it will subtract your containers weight from the total weight of your ingredients.

Next using the formula provided below you, measure your Titanium Dioxide and add to the container on your gram scale. If you decide to use zinc oxide, serecite, or other fillers, add them at this time. For right now we will follow the formula provided below. Make sure your measurements are accurate. You should jot down your ingredients and amount used. When you have the right gram weight based on the formula, pour the Titanium Dioxide into the grinder or blender.

You'll want to use a fresh container for the additional ingredients. You don't want to use the same container each time as the residual powder will throw your measurements off.

Now you will measure the appropriate amount of yellow iron oxide into a new container you've placed on the gram scale. Once you have the right gram weight you will add the yellow iron oxide to the blender/grinder. Turn on the grinder and leave it running for about 5 minutes. Make sure to jot down how long you let the grinder run - this step is important because longer or shorter grinding times will change your product.

You will follow the same procedure with ech pigment you use, measuring and adding one at a time. Make notes of how the color and texture of your foundation changes with the addition of each pigment. By keeping notes during this initial process you will be able to refer back when you begin mixing your own shades.

Use the following formula for this project:

Titanium Dioxide....41 grams
Zinc Oxide..........14 grams
Serecite............12 grams
Yellow Iron Oxide...2 grams
Red Iron Oxide......0.6 grams
Oriental............3 grams
blue iron oxide.....0.5 grams (add this last, it will is used to tie all your ingredients together)

Here are some general color blending guidelines you can follow, once you begin blending your own mineral foundation. For pink-based, lighter shades your main color source is the yellow iron oxide with a very small amount of red iron oxide. You will want to keep a larger amount of yellow iron oxide on hand as you will use it most often. Blue Iron Oxide (aka Ultramarine blue) is added last and in the smallest increments. It is used to bring the whole color together and will give your product a natural hue.

For olive tones you will increase the amount of yellow iron oxide and blue iron oxide in your formula.Cosmetics formulated for olive skin tones aren't easy to come by in commercial lines.

For darker tones your iron oxide concentration is heavier and your fillers are used in lower concentrations. you will use more red iron oxide in darker shades. You may also consider adding a dash of deeper mica shades to help in blending.

Now you are ready to start crafting your first mineral foundation. Have fun and get inspired.
 
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